A Train Station In Japan

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The Zen of Japanese Trains

 

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Waiting on an empty station

Without warning, the train pulled to a stop and refused to move. I had no idea where I was. I hoped I was still en route to Koya-san, Japan’s holy mountain. Here sleeps the Kobo Dashi, revered for bringing Shingon Buddhism to Japan, and who has spent the last one thousand years waiting for the Buddha of the Future. Monks still bring food twice a day to his mausoleum, the Oko-In.

Catching a train in Japan boarders on a leap of faith. At every station the signs are a complex system of interlocking lines in a rainbow colours, and what little I could read proved no help. I was never entirely convinced that either the train or myself knew where we were headed.

Yet, as the saying goes, the journey is often more important than the destination. Whizzing across the country in the famed bullet train, at one stage I passed palm trees and open water – not to mention a fleeting view of Mt Fuji. Now, speeding through Osaka’s outskirts, the train passed industrial areas and modern housing estates, interspersed with mazes of alleyways lined with traditional wooden houses. Vegetable plots and tiny rice paddies filled any spare space. As the sprawling city was left behind, the view outside the window became one of farmland, and this is where the train came to an unexpected stop.

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Monks at prayer, Koya-San

 

As the train continued to not move, the carriage emptied, and a smiling conductor kindly evicted me. Despite not speaking any English, somehow he reassured me that everything would be alright. As everyone else melted into the countryside, I was left sitting on my bags on an empty platform, with only the buzz of insects and the call of birds for company.

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Lanterns outside a temple

I dripped with sweat. Silent fields stretched to the horizon, and I watched the rise and dip of conical hats as farmers worked fields cultivated for centuries. It was a scene immortalised by the anime of Hayao Miyazaki (famous for classics such as Spirited Away and My Friend Totoro). For all I knew on leaving the train I had walked into a dream-world, onto a station which did not exist. Any moment the lamps beside me would come to life and hop away, guiding me to my destination as the night closed in on a cloud of fog.

Fortunately, a train arrived before the ubiquitous vending machine had been entirely emptied of its

Grave-markers in Koyasan
Grave-markers in Koyasan

offerings. As the land climbed, the summer heat faded. After passing orchards filled with fruit trees heavy with blossom, I entered a world of primeval forests filled with pine and cypress. At Gokuraku-bashi Station, the black-robed monks with their shawls of saffron, along with the pilgrims and tourists, were ushered into a cable car. This leapt into a wall of green, carrying us all to the top of the Holy Mountain.

The train had repaid my faith.

 

 

6 Thoughts on “A Train Station In Japan

  1. I have replied several times to your lovely posts. I never see them up and have no knowledge if they ever appear. I wish I knew.

    • anneharrison on July 18, 2016 at 10:09 pm said:

      I just found your comment hidden in the spam – I am so sorry, I don’t know where the others have gone. Thank you for taking the time to visit, even when i din’t reply to you!

  2. I look forward to your meeting with the monk! Well I hope you got to meet him:)

    • anneharrison on July 12, 2016 at 9:14 pm said:

      I did walk with the Kobo Dashi on the Holy Mountain (although he has been dead 1000 years); it’ll end up on my blog one day!

  3. Japan is a country I would love to visit….You paint such a beautiful picture with words. One of the important elements of Japanese paintings, theatre, gardens and life is that the ‘negative space’ is honoured. Something that I feel very strongly about in my own paintings. In other words what we don’t see is sometimes much more important than what we do see.
    Thank you…..Janet:)

    • anneharrison on July 12, 2016 at 9:05 pm said:

      Such kind and generous words, thank you. I agree that negative space is such an important aspect, not only in art but in culture, philosophy and life. Even Giotto’s perfect circle reflects this.Thanks for taking the time to read my blog.

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